Finding a Human Mirror
First tip is to find yourself a sighted, human mirror. Someone (or multiple people) who you trust to give you honest responses. It will take time to build up a system with your sighted mirror(s) but it is so important to get clear, honest feedback from a trusted source.
There will be times when you think ‘what am I doing?!’ but you will get past that.
Set yourself mini goals, don’t expect to be able to do everything all at once.
Don’t be scared.
Know Your Canvas
Never touch your face with dirty hands! Always use hand gel or soap before start your beauty routine.
Get hands-on and get to know your canvas – it’s really important to be aware of your own face. Logically process and map your face – what’s your brow length? Or eyelid space? Etc.
I have a method of dividing the face into four parts to help make sure you don’t miss anywhere (especially with primers and foundation!)
- Forehead and eyebrows
- Eyes and nose
- Lips and chin
- Lid: skin covering your eyeball when your eyes are shut.
- Crease: indent under your brow bone, above your lid.
- Outer V: corner of your eyelid nearest your ear, in the outer corner where the crease meets your cheekbone, make a sideways V shape going up an inch along the crease and sideways an inch along your lashline.
- Inner corner: corner nearest your nose where your crease meets your cheekbone.
- Lash line: straight line just above your eyelashes at the bottom of your lid.
- If you have a smaller eyelid, you want to focus the shadow in the crease. If you have a larger lid, you will need to apply more shadow.
- Get the right product – Lucy recommends Nyx products.
- Practice, practice, practice.
- Get the right placement – don’t draw where you don’t naturally have hairs as it won’t look right.
- Powder through the brows to blend them in for a more natural look.
- You will need to ask for help matching your tone. This is an ideal thing for your sighted mirror to help with but don’t be afraid to ask a professional at a cosmetics counter.
- There are three types of skin tone; yellow, neutral and pink.
- It’s unlikely that your foundation will be an exact match to your skin tone so don’t forget to rub the foundation down your neck to blend in.
- Use a beauty blender sponge for best coverage. Do not use fingers as they’re greasy and brushes can leave stroke marks.
- Liquid foundation is best for overall coverage, available in light to full coverage options. Can also use BB or CC (colour correcting) creams.
- Foundation gives a fuller coverage.
- BB and CC creams moisturise the skin too and are usually SPF.
- Maybelline matte mousse is a hybrid product. It gives light coverage with moisturiser.
Get to Know Your Tools
Powder Brush: Big and Soft
- For applying finishing powder.
- Do not put loads of powder on; tap gently before applying to face
- No swiping or hard pressure; just light taps.
- Smaller than a powder brush.
- For dabbing brush on the apple of the cheeks.
- Can sweep gently backwards if desired.
- Bristles are fanned out, feels like a very clear fan shape.
- For highlighting the top of your cheekbones.
- Less is more when it comes to highlighting.
- The tip is slanted.
- Best for eyebrows but can also be used for lip colours.
- Can get in different sizes so find one that suits your brows.
- The tip shaped like a pencil.
- Come in lots of different sizes.
- Use for getting shadow in the crease of the eyelid.
- Similar shape to blush brush but much smaller.
- Use in sweeping style over eyelids once colours have been applied with pencil brush.
- Used to blend colours in on the eyelid.
- Large brush with compact bristles, sometimes tapered.
- Not an essential item, you can use your powder brush for bronzer.
- Use to sweep bronzer slightly underneath the blusher and back towards your earlobe.
Beauty Blender: Sponge
- Use for applying liquid foundation and/or concealer.
- Use in a dabbing motion, don’t drag across your skin.
Know Your Products
Be organised with your products.
Take the time to sort your products so you know where they are and what they are.
Use a labelling system that works for you e.g. braille / pen friend stickers / bumpons / other tactile markings. You can also use the product packaging to recognise products if it’s particularly distinctive.
Compartment bags/boxes are your best friends – have different products sorted into different compartments of bags or boxes so you know where everything is.
Sort products out into ‘looks’ if you can so you know what products definitely go together.
Get to Know Your Routine
- Wash face first and apply moisturiser. Give 20 mins for it to sink in before starting make-up.
- Use primer – know your face; do you have dry patches or spots?
- If going for a strong eye look, you can do your eyes first, so you won’t ruin your foundation if any products smudge or drop.
- Apply foundation.
- Best to use liquid foundation or BB/CC cream for even coverage.
- Beauty blenders are great for even coverage.
- Apply concealer – should be two tones lighter than your face tone/foundation.
- Tap lightly to the required areas (mostly under eyes).
- Only tap about 10 times, otherwise you are just removing product.
- Can use same sponge that you used for foundation to apply.
- Apply powder using the powder brush. .
- Pat on the skin, don’t sweep.
- This sets your foundation.
- Can use pressed or loose powder depending on personal preference.
Day to Night
Use eye primer – recommend Urban Decay primer potion.
Use pencil brush for:
- Lid colour – this is the lightest shade, can be shimmery.
- Crease colour – this is the medium shade. Use dabbing style to apply. Do not use shimmery products here.
- Outer V – this is the darkest shade, slightly darker than crease colour.
- Use fluffy shader brush and a product 2 shades darker than your natural tone to lightly blend the three areas. This tone should be a matte product. Aim to sweep just above where you have applied the colours.
Eyeliner is Optional
- The key is to practice lots to find what works for you.
- Recommend Maybelline Master Precise Pen.
- Use light colours first and only move on to darker colours when you’re confident.
- Only overline your lips if you’re confident and have a reliable sighted mirror.
- Push your lips up (using your index and middle finger on one hand, press the tips of your fingers on your lips just in front of your two front teeth and underneath your cupid’s bow, push upwards so that your lips are pushed towards your nose) to tell where the end of your lips are so you can easily tell where your natural lip line is.